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Post by TRapper on Jan 25, 2013 20:22:12 GMT -6
i don't let trap theft scare me from setting a certain location, i set it with the trap or snare that best fits the situation, i am setting myself up for a better catch percentage because i believe i have the best set there
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Post by TRapper on Jan 23, 2013 22:18:21 GMT -6
that i am certain of, but i still have the original picture, will frame a copy and present it to ya when your wife is present
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Post by TRapper on Jan 23, 2013 10:12:58 GMT -6
You are without a doubt full of something, Josh ;D at least i don't let my picture be taken of me wiping down tables
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Post by TRapper on Jan 22, 2013 11:11:56 GMT -6
ok, got an idea, (i am full of things like that), with the fish stick and to my defense, it is an idea since i have only used a fish stick set a couple of times.
but if bait stealing is a problem then why not tack weld on the side of the fence stake triangle piece a small 1" steel tube to hold a paste bait/lure under the fish. this way if the fish is stolen and the culprit not caught, at least there is something still there to get the attention and aid in making a catch. and with coon the smellier the better
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Post by TRapper on Jan 20, 2013 22:36:52 GMT -6
we got about 2" of new snow today, so will maintain my line out and put in some FS sets at some open water
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Post by TRapper on Jan 17, 2013 11:56:22 GMT -6
setting one today with 2 traps and using carp for bait, only got about 3 places with open water, and only one i will set for coon cause of the friggin otters
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Post by TRapper on Jan 4, 2013 23:57:31 GMT -6
latex pan covers
havajunk cage traps (all of them)
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Post by TRapper on Jan 3, 2013 8:28:51 GMT -6
i used them in missouri to catch squirrels coming out of attics, they are very effective, i know a guy in pa that has a wildlife control business that does almost a million a year that owns and uses about 150 of those for nuisance squirrels
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Post by TRapper on Jan 3, 2013 0:57:39 GMT -6
i heard you can get 4 mink in there by adding fish oil, submerging them at 6 feet deep, and near a blind set location
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Post by TRapper on Jan 2, 2013 16:54:15 GMT -6
i know don uses it alot in pa as well as other guys, i have got a few in years past, honestly have not set one this year, my bottom edges were producing without having to set baited, but under ice they do shine though when it is hard to find the bottom edge location
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Post by TRapper on Jan 2, 2013 14:40:12 GMT -6
this does work pretty good, get a 110 and put a fishing lure made by storm that looks like a fish like bluegill, perch, etc. and cut the hook off at the fish body and attach it to your 110 and set in a deep pool where water flows through it, set it on the bottom or half way up, doesn't seem to matter, learned this trick from minktrapping.com owner Don Powell and his Mink Trapping book
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Post by TRapper on Dec 25, 2012 22:07:21 GMT -6
after some deburring where the spring eyes go up and down, i prefer the duke #5 DLS great trap and comes with a paws i trip already installed
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Post by TRapper on Dec 22, 2012 21:32:11 GMT -6
having shot the ruger mark III .22 i don't know if i would go another route. that being said, i use my dad's .22 Ruger old style single six. He has passed away in feb of 2005 and it is the gun he and used trapping together, so i will continue to keep it up and use it. but for better accuracy i would go with the first gun i mentioned above
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Post by TRapper on Dec 13, 2012 19:18:38 GMT -6
concrete culverts have dry dirt but don't forget the tall banks close to them that have overhanging banks, scrape that dirt into a bucket and if all else fails, go to snares on the k9's, they all have trails like coons do except their trails are a lil harder to spot
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Post by TRapper on Dec 6, 2012 8:18:01 GMT -6
one solid hit with j c connor mink trowel handle and lights out, also took out a big tom cat yesterday,
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80/20
Dec 3, 2012 23:33:46 GMT -6
Post by TRapper on Dec 3, 2012 23:33:46 GMT -6
trappers don't need no stinkin thumb, we can do it one handed if we need to (don't ask me to show you please haha)
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80/20
Dec 2, 2012 23:09:17 GMT -6
Post by TRapper on Dec 2, 2012 23:09:17 GMT -6
majority of easy coon are caught, now to catch those big boy roamers and i also am setting up new territory that has been untouched, on purpose. love catching fox and mink, so started setting for them more. i have a small line i run during my hour supper break at work, a line i run on the way home from work and a private property line i run in the morning before work which is from 1 p. to 10 p. just now setting up the first 2
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Post by TRapper on Nov 29, 2012 20:55:23 GMT -6
i know you are all talkin traps, great assortment of lure, probably already mentioned, (did not read all the long posts) but when using castor lure try to get a back foot catch and when using food lure you can go for either front or back foot, and likely what you go for you will catch opposite, making a indention in the bank does not guarantee the beaver will approach your trap from that way, i think alot of beaver are caught in traps by back feet as they go to swim away and kick off from shore
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Post by TRapper on Nov 29, 2012 20:50:42 GMT -6
i agree with gene on this but my agreement is with limited experience, have caught just over 30 coon this year out of 13 duke dog proofs and am using corn mixed with cherry oil, works very well for me. the corn is heavy enough i don't think the mice are the problem but the squirrels so i mixed in some dry cat food and even if the corn is gone the cat food mixed with cherry oil still does the trick
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Post by TRapper on Nov 17, 2012 20:58:00 GMT -6
didn't think we could use traps with teeth on them still?
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Post by TRapper on Nov 2, 2012 19:37:08 GMT -6
adc on here sells some great dogproof bait, also get a cheap dry small cat food fish flavor and mix with a 2-4 ounces of cherry oil you can get both at your local grocery store. mix it up well and let dry or use it wet, it don't matter, just don't fill the trap all the way to the top, but i am not a pro dp man yet, so i am only repeating what i have learned.
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Post by TRapper on Oct 4, 2012 23:14:48 GMT -6
i prefer blind about 95% of the time with mink, i rarely set a baited set specifically for mink. was taught to set blind and it is becoming a lost art among many trappers, i don't think it is because they don't like to set blind but maybe that they have a hard time seeing the blind set.
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Post by TRapper on Oct 4, 2012 9:54:20 GMT -6
am curious out there who prefers what
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Post by TRapper on Oct 2, 2012 8:16:18 GMT -6
k9 x3
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Post by TRapper on Sept 12, 2012 8:55:06 GMT -6
i spread it around alot to try and support each one, if i had to pick one or 2 though, i would go with nwtrappers.com and schmittent.com
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Post by TRapper on Nov 17, 2011 21:03:25 GMT -6
shouldn't have any of those the next few days
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Post by TRapper on Nov 4, 2011 21:36:54 GMT -6
or you can also take corn cobs without corn on them, break em in halves or 3 pieces, ream out the inside hole and put in a dab of lure, then push them in the bank to make it flush with the bank and set trap underneath, works really good and smell stays there longer, alot of times still there after catch.
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Post by TRapper on Nov 4, 2011 21:10:35 GMT -6
mink are basically land animals that are usually found close to a water source.
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Post by TRapper on Oct 10, 2011 23:17:22 GMT -6
as a young boy and high schooler i learned from a guy that let me trap the same farms he did and i walked by his sets daily and he would catch 60 mink a year and then move down to arizona with his wife til april. this was in NW Iowa in sac county. he was a blind setter, i learned alot from him and by the time i moved away from that area i was good at competing with him, from 110's on bottom edges, to what to look for in blind sets, and told me to put in bait sets to catch the coon and if you wanted a shot at mink in those pocket sets make the pocket about a foot off the ground on a vertical bank and put the trap tight against the base. but on the blind sets, try to anticipate the route of a mink while traveling and then while hunting and look where he will go. places where he would have to slow down a little to enter the water or go around something, forced in places. one of my best mink sets is under grass overhangs where the bank is cut out and only a inch or 2 of water is there. also, anywhere a pipe drain off comes into the creek or pond, those are mink magnets. if i am trapping a creek i put in minimum of 3 sets per stop, 2 on one side and always 1 on another. try to find those places on a creek where looks like a mini draw coming down similar to what a draw looks like in a pasture or field going down hill. those are places where mink blind sets will show up, don't be afraid to modify the spot.
stay away from bait and you will catch more mink and rats and far less coon. I trap all three but anytime i make coon sets, i always throw in a mink set or 2 blind. it is the mink trapper in me. i love catchin em, my best year was over 35 and about 250 rats just blind setting.
check those inside tight turn bends, look where the sloping land hits the waters edge especially on grass overhangs and clumps. also, at bridges set tight up against the bridge where the creek meets the bridge corner, expect coon here too along with several rats.
just some tips i have learned over the years, get jim spencers mink movie and you will really see all the blind set possibilities.
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Post by TRapper on Oct 3, 2011 21:47:17 GMT -6
build a box that will fit inside the cage trap and make the opening size of a 120 or 5x5 and set your small coni in it and let the coon stick his head through, lights out, no misses or escapes, use something stuck through top of trap to keep coon on that side of trap while you open it and insert the box, i too like dry coon and less blood spilled the better too
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