Tangle Stakes?

[coonnfoxtrapper]

How do you guys make tangle stakes for snareing Coyotes? Im trying to figure out somthing for next year to kill my coyotes when i dont have Trees or fences to tangle them in. Im thinking about a T stake roughly 36 inches long with a 12 - 18 inches of rebar above the T with #9 Welded on the top for a snare Stabilizer so when the stake is Pounded Down It wont Swivel around the stake itll just wrap Tight. Good idea or bad? What do you guys use?

[medicdano]

I use a second stake.

[justwannano]

Dec 28, 2013 13:33:44 GMT -6 medicdano said:

I use a second stake.

[jkl]

With the ground like it is here I am not driving another stake. It dont bother me if the yote is still alive. I have used 5ft of cable to 12ft of cable in 1/16, 5/64, and3/32 and all but 3 were alive. Only 1 chewed out of over 50.

[~ADC~]

Here's an excerpt from my coon snaring thread....

Speaking of that... My second method is a killpole method. Now at the time I made this origional post, it was still in the experimental stages* but I had very high hopes for it. I left it in this post for those who would like to try it in their area. The method was developed by a man who knows his snaring and told it to me. He said if I follow these next procedures exactly I'll get the desired result (neck snared, dead raccoons and fox) here goes...

The poles are made of 1/2 rebar 4' long. The support wire is #9 and the cross piece is 3" of 3/8 smooth rod. (1/2" nut on top) Here is how the poles are set up...





As you see the #9 is way shorter than most killpoles and the cross piece of 3/8 is one of the key aspects. It is there to serve as the point they will be hanging from.

The snare is another key piece to the set-up. It is 36" over all length (5/64th cable) and the lock is a BMI mini lock (very aggressive kill lock). The swivel really aids in getting the snare hung at a 90* to the surface of the trail and the wammy holds it all in place VERY snugly.

The loop is 7 1/4" wide and will be set 7-9" off the surface of the trail to the bottom of the loop. Common school of thought is you need a much smaller loop to get neck catches on coon, but with the extreme "loading" of these snares, they snap shut so fast you can get away with the bigger loops.

The killpole snares were custom made for me.

Now coyotes are a whole different story. You can use the same type pigtail supports but you should go with 30" long 1/2" rebar stakes and the snares for coyotes are totally different as you are trying to dispatch the coyotes ASAP with the snares. For coyotes I have found no better snares than 8' long 5/64 7x7 cable and a cam-lock or amberg lock with a killspring. My loops are not allowed to be over 11" wide and then only in certain locations, so I opt for a non-loaded snare that will have a taller loop to allow the coyote to enter more easily. I start with the bottom of the snare (in open trails) 11-12 off the surface of the trail.

Should be of some help.

Its an older post of mine, since then I've gone to just using a bigger kill pole of this same design (5/8" rebar 4-5' long (5' if its not frozen ground, 4' in frozen ground)) and my snares are just 3/32 7x7 cable with an adjustable loop end, and cam locks for coyotes.

~ADC~

[jdrogge]

Use 5/8 rebar they will bend 1/2

[coonnfoxtrapper]

Thats a nice set up ADC Thank you for sharing it again Do you think the rebar sticking up like that Makes some Coyotes Shy?

Thanks for that tip JD I never thought about 1/2inch not being enough to keep from bending But it makes sense.

[~ADC~]

My poles are off to the side of the trail more for coyotes by using a longer support wire to reach out there further. Generally they blend into the grass or weeds fairly well. Yep JD I too use 5/8 on coyotes. I edited that in at the end of the post above.

Jayme

[jkl]

I straighten 1/2 rebar on hitch of truck then reset.