220 conibear trigger figuration

[trapperjohn1]

I was wondering how u guys place your conibear triggers, some like them straight up and down, either in the middle or clear off to one side,but sometimes the coon gets flanked in other words he gets to far in the trap before it fires, some times i just spread em into a Y, but feel like i get some refusels with the wire in his face,plus any difference between trail sets and bucket sets as for as position of trigger. thanks

[medicdano]

Trail sets I like them in a "L" shape, one more across the bottom and another verticle about 1/3 into the opening. Bucket sets I them "T" shaped, straight down in the middle and bent at a 90 angle half way down the trigger. Seems successful for me anyway.

[LLLTrapper]

L shape will suitcase a coon a big percentage of the time. I personally don't like hip caught or suitcased coon. LLL

[4fur]

I often use an "L" on big bodygrips for spring beaver to allow most 'rats to pass through the trap.

A suit cased coon is better than a refusal coon, though.

Trail sets, bell shaped from top jaw. Baited 220s, "M" from the bottom jaw seems to work best for me.

[LLLTrapper]

That depends on what temp.it is Wayne. A suitcased or set to the side trigger on a blind trail will often give you a hind quarter catch and if you are checking late in the day it can be not a good thing. Suit case them in freezing temps and you better have a few traps to trade out. I agree that is better than a refusal though. LLL

[jim blakley aka Gadget]

..........I have all of my #220's equipped with Victor #110 triggers . 99% of my coon are caught by the neck . The smaller trigger causes the trap to spring with almost no travel of the trigger . And the thinner trigger wires presents a smaller obstacle on the trail . Try It before you dismiss this Idea .

[bootleggerben]

Oct 10, 2013 7:41:26 GMT -6 jim blakley aka Gadget said:

..........I have all of my #220's equipped with Victor #110 triggers . 99% of my coon are caught by the neck . The smaller trigger causes the trap to spring with almost no travel of the trigger . And the thinner trigger wires presents a smaller obstacle on the trail . Try It before you dismiss this Idea .

That's a good idea. I'll try that on some of mine. Do you just run the them in a V shape?

Thanks,
Ben

[iowaoutdoorsman]

 

Oct 10, 2013 7:41:26 GMT -6 jim blakley aka Gadget said:

..........I have all of my #220's equipped with Victor #110 triggers . 99% of my coon are caught by the neck . The smaller trigger causes the trap to spring with almost no travel of the trigger . And the thinner trigger wires presents a smaller obstacle on the trail . Try It before you dismiss this Idea .

[iowaoutdoorsman]

.

[jim blakley aka Gadget]

Oct 10, 2013 9:00:10 GMT -6 bootleggerben said:

Oct 10, 2013 7:41:26 GMT -6 jim blakley aka Gadget said:

..........I have all of my #220's equipped with Victor #110 triggers . 99% of my coon are caught by the neck . The smaller trigger causes the trap to spring with almost no travel of the trigger . And the thinner trigger wires presents a smaller obstacle on the trail . Try It before you dismiss this Idea .

That's a good idea. I'll try that on some of mine. Do you just run the them in a V shape?

Thanks,
Ben

......Yes to the V shape ................

[furshed]

Oct 10, 2013 7:41:26 GMT -6 jim blakley aka Gadget said:

..........I have all of my #220's equipped with Victor #110 triggers . 99% of my coon are caught by the neck . The smaller trigger causes the trap to spring with almost no travel of the trigger . And the thinner trigger wires presents a smaller obstacle on the trail . Try It before you dismiss this Idea .

you got me thinken ,

[trapperjohn1]

question for jim blakley aka gadget, i like your idea of putting 110 triggers on a 220, but do u just switch the trigger or will a 220 dog fit in 110 trigger. thanks for your help.

[jim blakley aka Gadget]

............I don't change the dogs ................Add your location to your profile ! Or I wont answer any more of your posts !...........

[ntg2]

Go easy on him Jim he is just 4 post's in. We all know you would answer his questions, you could not resist, you are a teacher at heart.
I suit cased so many coon in box's late last winter I remember thinking about 330 triggers for the late late season. Should I have just been happy getting few coon.

[LLLTrapper]

Train them right early. lol. A suit cased coon is usually from having a trigger at an L shape or set to one side or the other. Carrying a few extra traps is a good idea if it is below freezing if you are setting that way. Warm weather hip catches are often times worse. LLL

[ntg2]

Up north here there is no other option then to carry replacement traps. I get a lot of males on warm nights that only drop to 10 degree's and the day's are 25 to thirty but sunny. That's as warm as it got last winter until late march.

[LLLTrapper]

Oct 11, 2013 21:03:08 GMT -6 ntg2 said:

Up north here there is no other option then to carry replacement traps. I get a lot of males on warm nights that only drop to 10 degree's and the day's are 25 to thirty but sunny. That's as warm as it got last winter until late march.

If you catch them the way Blackhammer and I are saying (behind the ears) you can usually get them out even when frozen without to much trouble. LLL

[Doug]

Larry, unless I missed it you never said how you do your triggers. Is it a secret?

[brandtfleener]

A and E will be the ones most commonly used.

[jkl]

Oct 9, 2013 20:39:42 GMT -6 4fur said:

I often use an "L" on big bodygrips for spring beaver to allow most 'rats to pass through the trap.

A suit cased coon is better than a refusal coon, though.

Trail sets, bell shaped from top jaw. Baited 220s, "M" from the bottom jaw seems to work best for me.

4fur, I will have to try the "M" for my 220 boxes. Last year I was doing the upside down "V" with good results even got 1 mink in a box. Have you or anyone else tried the coni pans if so what did you think of them?