Dispatching Coon With Body Grip Trap

[ridgeview72]

I've know a guy who likes to dispatch coon caught in DP's using a #220 Body Grip Trap. He holds a marshmellow or something in one hand to get the coons attention then slips the Body Grip over their head while holding on to the end of the spring to trigger trap & dispatch them. He carries several around with him in the back of his truck preset & uses them as needed at each stop. He doesn't remove any of the dispatched coon from the body grips until he gets home or all of his body grips he uses for dispatching coon are full.

I'm not familiar with Body Grip Traps...have never used one. How easy and/or quick are they to set & what size Body Grip Trap would you guy's recommend if you were to try this dispatch method?

Would a #150 Super X Belisle Single Spring Body Grip Trap do the trick or would a double spring #160 or #220 a must?

How long would it take for the coon to expire before being able to safely remove & reuse at another stop?

[trapperdave]

i would use a 220 with good springs if u r looking at going that route they make setters for them that makes it very easy to set them as long as your springs have locks on them how long does it take i never tried this method but would bet couple minutes tops if u can get a good hold if he is using a body gripping trap to kill them has he just thought about putting out buckets or just using body gripping traps?

[~ADC~]

While I am sure it could work, it certainly would be a pain in the butt. First off you're waisting lots of time and effort. Trying to get the coon into the trap, waiting for it to expire, and then taking it out of the traps, resetting your conibear... etc... time consuming. And I can't see it being easy to get the right grip on the coons every time.

If for whatever reason you don't want to or can't use a .22 (highly recommend), try an aluminum softball bat. I hit them hard right on top of the head this disables and often kills them instantly. Pull them out of the trap immediately and remove them from the catch circle. The bigger coons may require another hit or two after you get them out of the trap/catch circle.

~ADC~

[Scott W.]

I use a 1/2 inch diameter trap stake or my IDS driver. Thump them to stun them then put the driver across the back of their neck, stand on it with both feet, lift the coon by the hind feet and break their neck. Small diameter driver or stake makes it easy. When the tail "cork screws" you know you did it right. In muddy bottomed creeks I do move the coon to solid ground before breaking their neck. Actually it is done faster than you can read this. My luck with the body grip method, I would get bit or catch my hand in the trap.

[~ADC~]

Jul 29, 2011 10:00:48 GMT -6 Scott W. said:

I use a 1/2 inch diameter trap stake or my IDS driver. Thump them to stun them then put the driver across the back of their neck, stand on it with both feet, lift the coon by the hind feet and break their neck. Small diameter driver or stake makes it easy. When the tail "cork screws" you know you did it right. In muddy bottomed creeks I do move the coon to solid ground before breaking their neck. Actually it is done faster than you can read this. My luck with the body grip method, I would get bit or catch my hand in the trap.

With this method do you have any trouble with the heads pulling off when you skin them Scott? That would be my only concern with it.

~ADC~

[~ADC~]

Incidentally, I have no trouble discussing humane dispatch methods here. Failed attempts and inhumane methods will be deleted.

Here is the standard reply I send to people who ask about dispatching various animals...

This post should cover any critters you need to dispatch. It tells the most popular ways to dispatch your catches quickly and humanely. It's something we as trappers don't enjoy but it is necessary so we want you all to know the proper methods to treat the animals as humane as possible.

In no particular order of recommended methods...

For Raccoons, Fox, Possums-
1. Blunt Force Trauma (BFT)- A solid hit to the top of the head behind the ears with a heavy club.
2. Gun- .22 caliber shot placed in the middle of an imaginary "X" between the right ear/left eye and left ear/right eye.
3. A stunned wrap to the head, then lay your trowel over the neck, step on both sides, and grabbing both hind legs, pull up quickly, snapping the animal's neck. This is a quick, humane kill.
4. A stunned wrap to the head, then drown if your near water.

Beaver-
1. BFT (see raccoon above)
2. Gun- (see raccoon above)
3. Drowning sets and body grippers are highly recommended.

Mink/Muskrats-
A solid hit to the head with your trowel or other like object will quickly and humanely dispatch any mink/muskrats you may have alive in your traps.

Bobcats-
1. Blunt Force Trauma (BFT)- A solid hit to the top of the head behind the ears with a heavy club.
2. Gun- .22 caliber shot placed in the middle of an imaginary "X" between the right ear/left eye and left ear/right eye.
3. Cats choke down fast using a catch pole as well.

Coyotes-
1. Blunt Force Trauma (BFT)- A solid hit to the top of the head behind the ears with a heavy club.
2. Gun- .22 caliber shot placed in the middle of an imaginary "X" between the right ear/left eye and left ear/right eye.

Skunks-
1. Gun- You'll find a .22 shot to the lungs will result in fewer skunks spraying than head shots but it is no guarantee.
2. Syringe Poling- There are commercial syringe poles on the market that are great for odor free skunk dispatching. These poles should not be used on any other more aggressive critters. To use the poles, walk slowly and calmly toward the skunk speaking to it in a relaxed voice. (approach with the wind to your back just in case) Allow nervous appearing skunks to relax before continuing your approach. Place the point of the needle into the chest cavity and continue a steady pressure until the injection is complete. Retreat slowly and allow 1-2 min. for the injection to work. (typically people use 10-12cc's of Acetone in the syringe.)

~ADC~

[Scott W.]

ADC,
I have never pulled a head off while skinning, but I don't use a skinning machine either. Sometimes I can feel it start to pull, then I just use the knife a bit more. I don't like the pieces of skull that come off with the hide from an over zealous thump. Trying not to be gory here, just discussing some of the "what ifs" on the trapline.

[iowatrapper]

Jul 29, 2011 11:25:08 GMT -6 Scott W. said:

ADC,
I have never pulled a head off while skinning, but I don't use a skinning machine either. Sometimes I can feel it start to pull, then I just use the knife a bit more. I don't like the pieces of skull that come off with the hide from an over zealous thump. Trying not to be gory here, just discussing some of the "what ifs" on the trapline.

I thump 99% of my coon and rarely have bone fragments when skinning. Can usually put them down in one swing.

[furman]

it works good but make sure you get the jaws of the 220 to land on the back and front of his neck.....if they hit on the sides you'll have a mess on your hands and not a good clean kill ...i'v done this method on badgers and otters and had good luck but remember the trap has to land on the back and front of the neck not the sides or any way else...use a Strong 220 that closes all the way

If you do it right it's lights out in a second.....like i said before i'v done it to badgers and i'm able to take out of the trap as soon as the trap lands on them

i don't use this way all the time ...just when i want to save skulls and don't have time to inject for dispatch

[ridgeview72]

The guy had sat in on a seminar on using DP's at a convention last fall. The man putting on the convention introduced him to the idea as that is the only dispatch method he uses. Well after having one come too after taking out of the trap last fall (he first clubbed it over head & thought was expired) & run off he started using body grips & now swears by it. He especially like the no blood so that skinning & putting up his own fur simply isn't as messy compared to shooting them...therefore taking less time. He also wants to leave as little evidence behind as possible that a catch was made...a gun leaves too much evidence for his liking when trapping in the ROW.

I'm nervous about the whole idea of using body grips myself, but was entertaining the idea of trying it. Wouldn't have known enough to make sure was on top & bottom of neck...would have slapped it over the coons head in any old direction so thanks for the great info.

Last season tried hitting over head, but I always aimed for their forehead between the eye's making some of them quite angry...seemed like when I did get them to go down I usually ended up using the .22 to get them kicking to convince myself they were expired as they always seemed to still be breathing. Did try breaking their neck the way Scott described but never seen their tail corkscrew...but had stake puller across their neck (1" square tubing I think).

When you club them properly do they start kicking frantically like they do from a .22 in the head?

Will try clubbing them in the way ADC described & breaking their neck for good measure just in case. ) I am probably more cautious than most so will have the .22 close by if i need a little extra convincing.

Thanks for everyone's insight.

[coontrapper]

I've tried about every method of killing coon. I personally use a .22 99% of the time. My trapping partner (Dad) hates blood. He kills his coons' with a wack to the head with a ax handle and stands on their cheast until they quit breathing or 220's them. Since I do half of the skinning and we run seperate lines most of time while checking I shoot mine. Much faster and less effort.

[justwannano]

I use a 22 most of the time. When I don't I thump them lightly--think stun-- and then put a catch pole around the neck and tighten. coons dead by my next stop and the catch pole isn't lost under all the traps n stuff in my pickup bed.
just

[riverbandit]

Jul 29, 2011 11:56:03 GMT -6 iowatrapper said:

Jul 29, 2011 11:25:08 GMT -6 Scott W. said:

ADC,
I have never pulled a head off while skinning, but I don't use a skinning machine either. Sometimes I can feel it start to pull, then I just use the knife a bit more. I don't like the pieces of skull that come off with the hide from an over zealous thump. Trying not to be gory here, just discussing some of the "what ifs" on the trapline.

I thump 99% of my coon and rarely have bone fragments when skinning. Can usually put them down in one swing.

x2

[furman]

i should add that coon are a pain to get to set still and there all hands and it takes time to get them right with a 220.....if a guy had only a few to do it might work out for ya but if you got a bunch it would it would take up alot of time.....i should add i tried on 10 or so skunks also....LOL...that's not a scent free operation

[LLLTrapper]

1/8 cable about 5' Long with current, silent and deadly. Also less theft. .22 pistol just in case. LLL

[calvin]

If a .22 is not an option, I agree with the 1/2" rebar. A 30" is really nice. The smaller diameter packs more punch and the heavyness of the rebar in that small of a diameter is the key.

Never use wood. Your arm will get sore before they do.

[dspree]

I think using a 220 would take a lot of extra time that I could be spending on the line or in the fur shed. Even though it may be a little more messy, a .22 is a lot faster and a baseball bat in the places a .22 couldn't be used. I don't have extra 220s to have just for dispatching coon. I would rather just use them for catching coon. ;D LLL's idea of a drowner is an easy way too.

[iowatrapper]

Jul 31, 2011 11:47:59 GMT -6 calvin said:

If a .22 is not an option, I agree with the 1/2" rebar. A 30" is really nice. The smaller diameter packs more punch and the heavyness of the rebar in that small of a diameter is the key.

Never use wood. Your arm will get sore before they do.

Thats not all true about wood. Ive used a wood louisville slugger for 8-10 years and works great. It has more to do with the weight, you cant use a stick and expect the same result.

[meandean]

I use a 220 in a box set up on my cage traps. Have a deal that keeps the coon in the rear of the cage while I set up the box with the 220 in it, then open the door and put the box to the cage and pull the deal that was holding the coon in the rear of the cage.

[4fur]

Before anyone gets too excited about this idea, reread furman's post...

Jul 29, 2011 17:37:37 GMT -6 furman said:

I should add that coon are a pain to get to set still and there all hands and it takes time to get them right with a 220.....if a guy had only a few to do it might work out for ya but if you got a bunch it would it would take up alot of time

[grinnergetter]

22 to the head fast simple and dead. Unless Joe shoots he is a bad shot

[calvin]

Jul 31, 2011 13:51:07 GMT -6 iowatrapper said:

Jul 31, 2011 11:47:59 GMT -6 calvin said:

If a .22 is not an option, I agree with the 1/2" rebar. A 30" is really nice. The smaller diameter packs more punch and the heavyness of the rebar in that small of a diameter is the key.

Never use wood. Your arm will get sore before they do.

Thats not all true about wood. Ive used a wood louisville slugger for 8-10 years and works great. It has more to do with the weight, you cant use a stick and expect the same result.

Could be with a heavy bat. I used a full lenth axe handle ONCE. Wasn't pretty and gave up after about 10 minutes to find steel. A guy always has a rebar trap stake around. I still use them where I don't want a bang. To each his own.

[dshay]

I started using 220's last year in spots to dispatch some of my coon. I do it when its a water set or DP not to far from a house. It also makes skinning them alot cleaner than if you hit them with a bat and early mournings and gun shots tend to wake people up.

There are a few tricks to using 220's to dispatch a coon with them and not costing your self much time doing it.

Hold the 220 over top of the coon and wiggle it. This will cause the coon to stand on his back legs or sit like a dog and look at it it makes the perfect opportunity to slap it over the animals head.

Next is to use a weaker 220 so don't use the strongest 220's you have that way setting them with your hands is easy.

Hopefully this helps some.

[arcman]

.22 shot between the eyes has always worked the best for me.