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Post by Brett H. on Nov 28, 2012 19:45:28 GMT -6
Mine are 8' of 1/2" rebar. I can make two and two 24" stakes for the top from one 20' stick of rebar. I've made my own locks. My favorites are ones I got from Furgood on here. They are 1" square tube about 2" long with a 45* angle on the end. I put a big washer on the top for the rod to go through and another 8" or so in from the bottom end. Did you have to stand on that CDR to set it?  I bet you can use the DLS once you figure the technique to setting them. ~ADC~ Thanks again for the info. haha... I have to stand on all of them to set them except the TS-85's which are two coiled! I am searching hard for the technique on the DLS.... very frustrating! |
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Post by Brett H. on Nov 28, 2012 19:48:29 GMT -6
Couple other questions...
I have to take the trap off the drowner to set it... I currently have the trap J-hooked to the drowner.... well these are not easy/quick to get off.... what other options do I have? I have never used an S-hook, is this something I should be using?
IF I was going to add some 330’s to my arsenal …what would some you guys would recommend?
Guys that are running chain drowners….what length and what kind of weight on the deep end?
Still would appreciate some pictures of guys setups.
Thanks
Brett
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Post by ~ADC~ on Nov 29, 2012 12:51:56 GMT -6
Try that video Brett. You can do it.  |
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Post by TRapper on Nov 29, 2012 20:55:23 GMT -6
i know you are all talkin traps, great assortment of lure, probably already mentioned, (did not read all the long posts) but when using castor lure try to get a back foot catch and when using food lure you can go for either front or back foot, and likely what you go for you will catch opposite, making a indention in the bank does not guarantee the beaver will approach your trap from that way, i think alot of beaver are caught in traps by back feet as they go to swim away and kick off from shore
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Post by 4fur on Nov 29, 2012 22:12:00 GMT -6
Go to most any small town lumber yard and they will let you use their rebar cutter. I cut 20" lengths in half but I have a lot of goose poop creek bottoms that I stick the anchor end in 3-4 feet. But 8' is probably more practical. Next order to MTP, get some Bauer no weld kits and you are in business... www.minntrapprod.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=279&products_id=4194I use spring hooks as connectors... www.minntrapprod.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4714I unhook my trap from the drowning rod and carry the beaver, trap and all, to hard, level ground or my tail gate where I take the beaver from the trap and reset it. I run Victor 14s and Alaska #9s for beaver footholds. Any trap that will hold a beaver under water for 13 minutes while it expires is a bitch to set, and dangerous. Be very careful handling these traps because they are every bit as dangerous as the big bodygrips IMO. I advise using a rerod stake to engage the dog. I broke a thumb last year trying to press the dog down to engage the pan on a near new 14. That sucked! Several have had problems with the spring hooks failing, but I have not. I replace my hooks every two years and thread the hook through the swivel hole. You are getting some good advice here, Brett. Breast sticks, bed the trap solid and use a lot of pan tension. Stay away from the lodge and main dam and work your way in. |
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Post by Bristleback on Nov 29, 2012 23:07:08 GMT -6
Great thread!
I've only dabbled in trapping beaver, but looking forward to this coming Spring.
Why don't more "target" the front foot on beaver?........obviously a much smaller foot vs those huge back feet.......also their front feet are sure closer to their nose for drowning rigs.......~ as in takes less water.
Look forward to the replys.
B, did you just go through the MB catalog and order "One of each please" LOL.
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Post by tjk on Nov 29, 2012 23:25:03 GMT -6
The front feet on a beaver are kinda wimpy and if your swiveling gets fouled it can twist of quite easily. That's why i think most want a back foot catch.
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Post by hvtrapper on Nov 30, 2012 8:04:00 GMT -6
Nice thing about the Bauer no-weld system is you can adjust the end stop up from the bottom of the rod. I prefer my catch to NOT mkae contact with the creek/pond/river bottom. IMO It decreases their leverage and I have fewer moved weights/pulled bottom stakes.
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Post by bradphillips on Nov 30, 2012 10:41:22 GMT -6
My rods are 10 footers with a washer at the top and a nut welded on about 4 inches from the bottom. Ram the bottom end into the stream bed, stake the top and go  I made my locks from square tube with an angle cut on them and a nut welded on for trap attachment. I am sure I copied it from here. I like the rods, but they are a pain to carry. Cement blocks sink in the sand and fill up a truck fast, had a few beavs bring a block back to the shore. I have also used feed sacks filled with rocks or dirt, they work well and the trap will get snagged in the mesh and help keep the beav down on the bottom. |
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Post by bluegill2 on Dec 1, 2012 10:30:26 GMT -6
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this post that provided information and tips. After a week of knocked down snares and traps not being touched I kept making adjustments and I finally got my first this morning, a 50-60 pounder in a castor set. I contribute it to all the great advice form this post and and others on this forum. Thanks again
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Post by Brunner on Dec 1, 2012 12:18:34 GMT -6
Brett, I know I'm not from Iowa, but feel like I can chime in a little to help you add to your success. Main reason why the back foot is targeted at castor mounds and dam breaks is that a lot of times when a beaver approaches these sets, his front feet are full (either mud or sticks) in an attempt to fix the "problem". I have no experience with drowning rods as with my rocky bottoms they are impossible to use. I use cables with weight on the end. This also makes it easier for me to set the trap and make the set with the trap set. I like the traps with the PIT style pans (CDR's and Bridger 5 coils are my favorite). Just don't engage the nite latch til everything else is complete.
You have a very good of assortment of lures there, they will serve you well.
You really want to gang set a colony when you first set it up and try to take the majority the first night. After a couple days of taking one at a time, the rest will start to catch on and become more difficult to trap.
Any type of 330 or 280 size conibear will work for catching beaver. I'm a big fan of the new bridger conis though.
Nice thing about the foot traps with beaver is that if a colony has been worked over before, most people use a conibear. Those ones that survive catch on to what that square means and will not enter it. I've even had them catch onto castor based lure. Most of those older square shy beavers can be caught in the foot traps like you discovered with that 60 pounder. Congrats by the way, that's a good one.
Save the oil sacks out of those beaver like I'm sure you will the castor. I will freeze them til I have time to mess with them. I drain the oil out of the sac and save the empty sac for K9 trapping (that's another post for another time). When you find one of those big old batchlor beaver that won't commit to anything else, a foothold bedded solid with a tiny bit of that sac oil on the end of a weed stem set at a mock pullout will be more then they can resist.
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Post by bradphillips on Dec 1, 2012 14:58:16 GMT -6
Brunner, the Adirondacks probably has more beaver than Iowa, not to mention all of the famous old time trappers from New York State. Share, some knowledge |
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Post by Brett H. on Dec 1, 2012 16:31:27 GMT -6
Try that video Brett. You can do it. Jayme – I don’t think that guy is going to that with these new traps…. At least I know I still can’t…. Go to most any small town lumber yard and they will let you use their rebar cutter. I cut 20" lengths in half but I have a lot of goose poop creek bottoms that I stick the anchor end in 3-4 feet. But 8' is probably more practical. Next order to MTP, get some Bauer no weld kits and you are in business... www.minntrapprod.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=279&products_id=4194I use spring hooks as connectors... www.minntrapprod.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4714I unhook my trap from the drowning rod and carry the beaver, trap and all, to hard, level ground or my tail gate where I take the beaver from the trap and reset it. I run Victor 14s and Alaska #9s for beaver footholds. Any trap that will hold a beaver under water for 13 minutes while it expires is a bitch to set, and dangerous. Be very careful handling these traps because they are every bit as dangerous as the big bodygrips IMO. I advise using a rerod stake to engage the dog. I broke a thumb last year trying to press the dog down to engage the pan on a near new 14. That sucked! Several have had problems with the spring hooks failing, but I have not. I replace my hooks every two years and thread the hook through the swivel hole. You are getting some good advice here, Brett. Breast sticks, bed the trap solid and use a lot of pan tension. Stay away from the lodge and main dam and work your way in. Appreciate the reply Wayne…Good information! Great thread! I've only dabbled in trapping beaver, but looking forward to this coming Spring. Why don't more "target" the front foot on beaver?........obviously a much smaller foot vs those huge back feet.......also their front feet are sure closer to their nose for drowning rigs.......~ as in takes less water. Look forward to the replys. B, did you just go through the MB catalog and order "One of each please" LOL. Haha, pretty much… the only way to know what I like best and is effective for me is to try it all! Brett, I know I'm not from Iowa, but feel like I can chime in a little to help you add to your success. Main reason why the back foot is targeted at castor mounds and dam breaks is that a lot of times when a beaver approaches these sets, his front feet are full (either mud or sticks) in an attempt to fix the "problem". I have no experience with drowning rods as with my rocky bottoms they are impossible to use. I use cables with weight on the end. This also makes it easier for me to set the trap and make the set with the trap set. I like the traps with the PIT style pans (CDR's and Bridger 5 coils are my favorite). Just don't engage the nite latch til everything else is complete. You have a very good of assortment of lures there, they will serve you well. You really want to gang set a colony when you first set it up and try to take the majority the first night. After a couple days of taking one at a time, the rest will start to catch on and become more difficult to trap. Any type of 330 or 280 size conibear will work for catching beaver. I'm a big fan of the new bridger conis though. Nice thing about the foot traps with beaver is that if a colony has been worked over before, most people use a conibear. Those ones that survive catch on to what that square means and will not enter it. I've even had them catch onto castor based lure. Most of those older square shy beavers can be caught in the foot traps like you discovered with that 60 pounder. Congrats by the way, that's a good one. Save the oil sacks out of those beaver like I'm sure you will the castor. I will freeze them til I have time to mess with them. I drain the oil out of the sac and save the empty sac for K9 trapping (that's another post for another time). When you find one of those big old batchlor beaver that won't commit to anything else, a foothold bedded solid with a tiny bit of that sac oil on the end of a weed stem set at a mock pullout will be more then they can resist. Great info! Thanks |
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Post by Brunner on Dec 1, 2012 21:22:33 GMT -6
Brunner, the Adirondacks probably has more beaver than Iowa, not to mention all of the famous old time trappers from New York State. Share, some knowledge Not from the Adirondacks, more at the northern tip of the Catskill Mountain Range. We to have beaver, both in rivers and in ponds. I haven't put up 100 beaver catches, but put my time in and caught my share, as well as beaver complaint jobs where a complete clean out is desired. At first, beaver aren't a difficult animal to trap. You can pick up a pile of them by run and gunning them as long as you travel and locate the colonies. I've seen Brett's catches and know he knows how to locate fur. He'll do well. Most shake the beaver addiction once the honey moon wears off when they're catching more then 5 a day, daily. In my opinion, there is no more difficult animal to trap then a big old female beaver that has had her mates and kits trapped out. I feel she'll put any coyote to shame in intelligence. Also, we aren't allowed to use snares in NY, so that part is out of my realm. |
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Post by mattduncan on Dec 2, 2012 22:28:03 GMT -6
Try that video Brett. You can do it. Jayme – I don’t think that guy is going to that with these new traps…. At least I know I still can’t…. Appreciate the reply Wayne…Good information! Haha, pretty much… the only way to know what I like best and is effective for me is to try it all! Brett, I know I'm not from Iowa, but feel like I can chime in a little to help you add to your success. Main reason why the back foot is targeted at castor mounds and dam breaks is that a lot of times when a beaver approaches these sets, his front feet are full (either mud or sticks) in an attempt to fix the "problem". I have no experience with drowning rods as with my rocky bottoms they are impossible to use. I use cables with weight on the end. This also makes it easier for me to set the trap and make the set with the trap set. I like the traps with the PIT style pans (CDR's and Bridger 5 coils are my favorite). Just don't engage the nite latch til everything else is complete. You have a very good of assortment of lures there, they will serve you well. You really want to gang set a colony when you first set it up and try to take the majority the first night. After a couple days of taking one at a time, the rest will start to catch on and become more difficult to trap. Any type of 330 or 280 size conibear will work for catching beaver. I'm a big fan of the new bridger conis though. Nice thing about the foot traps with beaver is that if a colony has been worked over before, most people use a conibear. Those ones that survive catch on to what that square means and will not enter it. I've even had them catch onto castor based lure. Most of those older square shy beavers can be caught in the foot traps like you discovered with that 60 pounder. Congrats by the way, that's a good one. Save the oil sacks out of those beaver like I'm sure you will the castor. I will freeze them til I have time to mess with them. I drain the oil out of the sac and save the empty sac for K9 trapping (that's another post for another time). When you find one of those big old batchlor beaver that won't commit to anything else, a foothold bedded solid with a tiny bit of that sac oil on the end of a weed stem set at a mock pullout will be more then they can resist. Great info! Thanks Brett that is a 5 duke that's only a couple years old with very little use on it , I can do it with a new one all day long as well , it's not hard once you get on to it , a cdr is much tougher to set by hand then the big double longs |
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Post by 4fur on Dec 3, 2012 6:55:48 GMT -6
Drowning rod with spring hook in action yesterday...  Of course I meant I take the beaver, trap and all, to the truck where I set the trap on a hard surface or on the tail gate of my truck with my feet! |
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teal
Shy Talker
Posts: 31
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Post by teal on Dec 3, 2012 15:16:08 GMT -6
I've gone to all drown rods as well 10ft 1/2 inch with washer top and nut stop about a foot up from the bottom.
I used to run all cable with feedsacks with rocks at the bottom.
Glad I made the switch. I still use a few in the spring if I run low on rods.
I try to target for back foot when trapping strictly beaver...however, in the spring I target front feet and run very little pan tension as i like the incidental rats.
The spring clips that 4fur uses have given me problems in the past so I don't use them anymore, that being said I never ran them through the hole in the swivel, just through the swivel body.
At the moment I use quick links to attach my traps, however, I'm not sold on this yet.
As far as #330 preference the new Bridger mags or belisles are sweet. Would switch to all these if I had the $$$.
Beaver trapping is a bunch of fun, have at it.
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waackone
Shy Talker
jackson county
Posts: 29
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Post by waackone on Dec 3, 2012 21:19:46 GMT -6
OK. From reading these posts I must be dealing with a very intelligent female. Have caught three beaver out of these ponds the first week. But since then I have done everything I have read, thought, and have been taught by my mentor. The first two were my first ever and they were on castor mound drowners. The third was in a 330 in front of a culvert. That was two weeks ago and since then I have had buried 330's, sprung foot traps, and a couple toe catches. this has become an obsession to catch this or these beaver. My question is should I pull out and come back or are there any tactics i could try. There are three ponds on this property next to a creek. I am using snares(17), two 330s, and 4 foot traps. Any thoughts would be appreciated. (I apologize in advance if I should have started a new thread???) Thanks.
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teal
Shy Talker
Posts: 31
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Post by teal on Dec 3, 2012 21:27:37 GMT -6
have you tried reluring the castor mounds with castor from beaver caught from that pond.
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waackone
Shy Talker
jackson county
Posts: 29
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Post by waackone on Dec 3, 2012 21:46:22 GMT -6
No I didnt try that. Used four different ones that I purchased thinking the new scent would be better.
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Post by riverbandit on Feb 16, 2013 12:18:02 GMT -6
That old girl isn't going any where near a lure now.
Your best bet is to pull out of the area for a week or so, than come in as quietly as possible and put in a few strategically placed snares.
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Post by darrin on Feb 16, 2013 19:05:27 GMT -6
Awesome thread. Lots of good info here. I have trapped strictly with 330s and had decent success but decided to step up my game this spring so I have some MB 750s on the way. I intend to spend tommorrow afternoon in the shop making some drowning rods to go with them. Wish you all the best of luck with whats left of trapping season in your area.
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Post by coonslayer32 on Feb 19, 2013 8:21:57 GMT -6
I am here for schooling.... I have never caught a beaver beside in a pocket with a duke 1.5 I bought a couple of these just becuase I wanted to play with them.....ordering more now....  Well now I actually want to use them...... I literally know nothing about trapping beaver..... Looking for advice on... Sets? 330 conibear it works better tan the other sets Lure? (do I even need?) Bait? (do I even need?) Thanks in advance Brett |
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bobafett
Hyper-Active Trap Talker
Posts: 146
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Post by bobafett on Feb 19, 2013 13:09:34 GMT -6
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I bet you can use the DLS once you figure the technique to setting them. 
